The tragedy on Everest in 1996, may 11: a chronicle of the tragedy, participants, survivors

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2018-03-31 19:08:26

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Each climber is well known that mountain peaks whose height exceeds 8000 meters pose a fatal danger to their conquerors. In the thin air, the human body completely loses the ability to recovery, which often causes death. The tragedy on Everest in may 1996, became a vivid proof of that.

Victims of the treacherous peaks

On the fateful coincidence, the whole of 1996 included a sad page in the history of the conquest of Everest. During the season, fifteen people lost their lives storming the wily top. Not spared the trouble side and two commercial climbing group "Mountain of madness” and “Consultants, adventure”.Tragedy on Everest 1996

As evidenced by the chronicle of the tragedy on Everest in 1996, they comprised of six experienced and highly qualified guides and eight Sherpas-local residents, hired as guides, porters, and sixteen clients paid sixty-five thousand dollars for the opportunity to play with death on the icy slopes. For five ascent ended tragically.

How did the tragedy on Everest in 1996

Early on the morning of 10 may when the sun's rays still illuminated the tops of the mountains, thirty brave men stormed the Everest – peak, towering at 8,848 meters above sea level. At the head of groups there were serious professionals Rob Hall and Scott Fischer. They knew that the entire region beyond 8000 metres is called "death zone" and understood the need for careful preparation of participants lifting and strict observance of established rules, especially if we are talking about such treacherous peaks like Everest. In 1996, a tragedy which shocked the sports fans, came a black page in the history of world mountaineering.

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Then, As testified by those who were lucky enough to stay alive, from the very beginning of the storm there is a problem. Lifting schedule strictly regulating the time it takes to cover each section of the slope, was directly violated, as it became clear that the Sherpas have not coped with the installation of a rope handrail to the group. When, at last, reached the most important phase, called the Hillary Step, there were more lost hours of precious time due to the congestion of climbers from other groups.Everest 1996 tragedy

Climbers have a rule that reads: “Behind schedule, don't wait for disaster – come back!” Four commercial groups Stuart Hutchinson, John, Tusk, Frank Fischbeck and Lou Kasiske followed this wise advice and survived. The rest of the climbers continued on their way. By five o'clock they reached the next important milestone, located at an altitude of 8350 meters and referred to as "Balcony". Again there was delay, this time due to lack of insurance. But before the coveted summit was only a hundred meters. It is Manila okay vyrishuvaty with a perfect blue sky, and the proximity of the target drunk and dulled sense of danger.

On top

One Hundred metres – it's a lot or a little? If measured from home to the nearest cafe, very close, but when we are talking about almost vertical slope, rarefied air and temperature –40 °C, in this case, they can stretch into the icy infinity. So the last and the most difficult part of the climb, each climber was overcome by choosing the speed depending on own health and stamina.

About one o'clock on Everest has risen, the Russian Anatoli Boukreev – an experienced climber, honored master of sports. He first stepped onto the summit in 1953, and later won another eleven-thousanders of the planet. Twice he was awarded for personal courage. On account of his many lives saved, including when climbing Everest (the tragedy of 1996). Anatoly died a year later under a snow avalanche in the Himalayas.

A Few behind Boukreev, on top came two more – commercial client John Brewer and guide of “Consultants, adventure” Andy Harris. Half an hour later they were joined by the guide “Mountain of madness” Neil Beidleman and their client Martin Adams. The rest of the participants far behind.

A Belated descent

According to the schedule, the deadline for the start of the descent has appointed two o'clock, but by this time most of the climbers have not climbed to the top, and when finally they did, for too long people cheered and took pictures. Thus, time has been irretrievably lost. This was one of the reasons for the event, now known as the tragedy on Everest in 1996.Everest tragedy 1996

Only about sixteen hours to the base camp, it was reported that all climbers are at the top. The first has started to descend Anatoly Boukreev, because of all those present, he stayed the longest at the maximum height and could no longer do without additional oxygen. His task was to return to Camp IV-the last Parking lot before the top, relax and return to help the others, lugging oxygen tanks and a thermos of hot tea.

Mountain captivity

Survivors in the tragedy of 1996 on Everest then told that at the beginning of the descent Anatoly weather deteriorated sharply, rosethe wind worsened the visibility. To be next on the peak became impossible, and the rest of the team also pulled down. Scott Fisher went down with one of the Sherpas named Lobsang.

Reaching the "Balcony" and once at the level of 8230 meters, they were forced to stay because of the extremely poor health Fisher, who by that time began to have severe swelling of the brain – not uncommon at extreme heights. He sent Lapshanga to continue the descent and, if possible, to get help.

When the Sherpas reached Camp IV, were in the people were not ready to leave the tent and to be back on the hillside among the rose by the time of the storm. The last hope was pinned on Boukreev, but he deduced from the snow captivity three people – sandy Pittman, Charlotte Fox and Tim Madsen. Only in the middle of the next day managed to climb to Fischer, but he was already dead. His body couldn't get down, so I just filled up with stones on the hillside. Monument to Scott was conquered Everest (1996). Tragedy continued their grim harvest.

By this time the wind increased, and raised his snow limited the visibility literally at arm's length. In this complex environment, a group of climbers from the squad “Consultants, adventure” lost, completely lost orientation. They tried to find their way back to Camp IV and moved blindly until it fell exhausted on the edge of a precipice, fortunately, not having reached a few meters.

From certain death saved them all the same Boukreev. In the impenetrable snow mess he found freezing climbers and as individuals to bring into his camp. This episode is described in detail later Neil Beidleman – one of those fortunate enough to escape death, climbing Everest (1996).the Tragedy on Everest in may 1996

Tragedy

Anatoly did everything in his power. To help, he could not only two: Japanese Asuka Namba was already in a hopeless condition, and another member of the group, withers, lost in the storm and was not able to find. The next morning he reached the camp, but was in such a degree frostbitten, that no one hoped for a favorable outcome. He survived, but when he was taken by helicopter to the hospital, doctors had to amputate his right hand, all fingers of the left and the nose. This misfortune turned to his ascent of Everest (1996).

The Tragedy played on may 11, fully continued the next day. When was the last climbers left the summit, the chain closed two: Rob Hall and his friend, Doug Hansen. After a while from Rob received an alarming message that Doug lost consciousness. Urgently needed oxygen and the guide “Consultants, adventure” Andy Harris went to him with a balloon.

When he did so, Hansen was still alive, but was in critical condition. The situation is complicated by the fact that most Rob the regulator of an oxygen cylinder is frozen, and he was not able to connect to the mask. After some time came to the aid of Harris suddenly vanished in the snowy darkness.

During a recent radio session Rob Hall reported that both were with him climber is dead and it is because of severe frostbite almost hopeless. The man asked to speak with his pregnant wife Jan Arnold in New Zealand. Saying a few words to her in consolation, Rob forever turned the radio off. The tragedy on Everest in 1996 took the life of this man. To save him failed, and only twelve days later, petrified in the cold body found the other participants of the expedition.

The Tragedy on mount Everest in 1996 was the sad result. Group "Mountain of madness” suffered smaller losses, but during the descent was killed by her Manager, Scott Fisher. The second – “Consultants, adventure” – lost just four. These were: supervisor Rod Hall, his regular client Doug Hansen climber-instructor Andy Harris and a Japanese athlete Yasuko Namba, which is not preserved quite a bit to Camp IV.

The causes of the disaster

Today, after many years of unfortunate events, analyzing the causes of this most large-scale tragedy in the Himalayas, the experts come to the conclusion that there were several. The conquest of the mountain heights that exceed eight-thousand meters, is always risky, but its degree largely depends on how strictly adheres to the requirements to the participants of ascents.

Among the reasons which resulted in the tragedy on Everest (may 1996), first of all, there are disorders associated with the schedule recovery. In accordance with the previously scheduled plan, the two groups had started the ascent at midnight on may 10, was with the dawn to reach the mountain ridge, and at 10 a.m. may 11 to be on the top of the South.

On the final point of the ascent-of Everest – it was expected to rise at noon. This plan remained unfulfilled, and the rise extended to 16 hours. The violation triggered a series of fateful events that resulted in the death of people. The rule “Behind schedule, don't wait for disaster – come back!” was ignored.11 may 1996 tragedy on Everest

One of the reasons why the tragedy occurred on mount Everest in may 1996, the researchers point to a number of delays during the climb. In terms of climbing, it was assumed that the Sherpa Lapsang and Rob to leave camp before the rest of the membersteam and install a rope railing near the South summit for the safety of climbers. They didn't do it because of an attack of altitude sickness on one of them. This work had to comply with guides and Boukreev Beidelman, which resulted in additional delay.

Security Breach

In addition, the organizers of the climb made that day a gross violation of safety rules. The fact that on may 11 came from three groups to storm the Everest. The tragedy of 1996 was largely because of that day on the hillside was an excessive number of climbers, and before the last, most difficult section of the climb there was a stopper.

As a result, the height of 8500 meters, the rarefied air and strong frost, the weary men had to wait their turn standing on a penetrating wind. Subsequently, analyzing the causes, which resulted in the tragedy on Everest in 1996, the organizers of the ascent were justified by hopes that a large number of the participants of the climb will help them better cope with deep snow and other difficulties of the route.

The Impact of natural factors on mountain climbers

Every commit climbing, and especially one who organizes, should be aware that at extreme heights the human body vulnerable to a variety of negative impacts. Among them is a lack of oxygen caused by low air pressure and cold, sometimes reaching the level of –75 °C.

Coupled with extreme fatigue as a result of rising up the hillside, these factors lead to increased heart rate, breathing, and sometimes to hypothermia and hypoxia. At such altitudes the body loses the ability to recover and increased physical activity lead to his ultimate exhaustion. Here are the dangers of being Everest. The tragedy of 1996 is played on its slopes, was a striking and sad proof of that.

As practice shows, among the causes of death of climbers at high altitudes, the most common is swelling of the brain. It is a consequence of the low oxygen content in the air and leads to paralysis, coma and death. Another cause of death in the thin air and low temperatures is called pulmonary edema. He often ends inflammation, bronchitis and fractured ribs.

The Lack of oxygen, compounded by high loads, often causing the heart attacks that in the absence of immediate medical attention can also lead to death. A considerable danger for humans, appeared in the mountains, is the blindness caused by the glare of the snow in clear weather. It leads to accidents, witnessed by Everest. Tragedy (1996), photos of which illustrate this article, gave a rich material for understanding its causes and developing security measures.

And finally, frostbite. As noted above, the eight-thousanders, the temperature often sinks to -75 °C. considering that the wind gusts reach 130 kilometers per hour, it becomes clear that the danger to human life represent such extreme weather conditions.Chronicle of the tragedy on Everest 1996

In Addition to the extremely negative impact on the physical condition of the person, all these factors significantly impair his mental abilities. This affects the short and long term memory, mental clarity, ability to adequately assess the situation and, as a consequence, makes it impossible to make the right decisions.

In order to stimulate the body's resistance influencing negative factors, practiced acclimatization. However, in this case, her schedule was disrupted. The reason for this was the delay in the installation of high-altitude camps, as well as low training of the participants of the ascent. As you can see from their memories, many did not know how to properly allocate their strength, and wishing to save them, has shown unreasonable slow on the rise.

The Weather factor and lack of oxygen

Experienced climbers know that even the most thorough preparation is no guarantee of its success. Very much depends on whether you're lucky with the weather. Everest is also the area where it changes with amazing speed. Within a short period of time, a transition from clear Sunny day to a snow storm that blanketed all around by impenetrable darkness.

This is What happened that ill-fated day, may 11, 1996. Tragedy on Everest broke out because when the climbers barely survived the excitement of reaching the top, began the descent, the weather deteriorated. A Blizzard and snow storm is extremely limited visibility and concealed marks indicating the way to Camp IV. As a result, the group of climbers lost, losing orientation.

Gale-force wind, the speed of which that day reached 130 kilometers per hour, and severe frosts have not only put more people in danger of being swept away into the abyss, but also led to a decrease in atmospheric pressure. As a result, the air fell the oxygen content. It reached 14 %, which is extremely exacerbated the situation. This concentration required the immediate use of oxygen cylinders, which by that time was completely spent. Consequently, there is a critical situation. There was a threat of loss of consciousness, pulmonary edema and death.

The Lack of cylinders – a mistake of the organizers of the ascent, which they didn't forgive Everest. The tragedy of 1996 occurred because some of itsthe participants were people unprepared, poorly tolerate the thin air. During acclimatization they had to sleep with oxygen tank, which greatly increased their consumption. In addition, they are required in large quantities for rescue of Ngawang Sherpa, evacuated from the height.

The Danger lurking in the commercial approach to mountaineering

Another important factor that caused the sad events of may 11, 1996. The tragedy on Everest in some degree was a result of the commercialization of mountaineering, which began in the nineties. Then there was and quickly got the development of the structure focused solely on profit from the willingness of customers to participate in reaching the top. For they did not play the role nor the level of training of these people, nor their age or physical condition.Survivor of the 1996 tragedy on Everest

The Main thing was to be paid the required amount. In the case of “Mountain of madness” and “Consultants, adventure” she was sixty-five thousand dollars. The price includes professional tour guides, food costs, equipment, transport to base camp and escort you to the peak of the mountain.

Subsequently, one of the guides admitted that customers, were part of “Mountain of madness”, nearly unprepared for the ascent of that he was sure in advance to failure, and, nevertheless, took them to a height that is accessible only to experienced athletes. Thereby put at risk the lives of not only those tourists but also all who went along with them. At the height of one man's mistake can lead to death of the whole group. Partly because it happened. Tragedy on Everest (1996), whose members have become victims of commercial interests-a clear confirmation.


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Alin Trodden - author of the article, editor
"Hi, I'm Alin Trodden. I write texts, read books, and look for impressions. And I'm not bad at telling you about it. I am always happy to participate in interesting projects."

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